The first of my pieces from the March issue of LA Confidential is up, and it's the front of the Eating & Drinking section. It's about one of the buzziest new restaurants in town, called Red Medicine, that's sort of going for a punk Vietnamese cantina aesthetic (you'll see what I mean).
You might have heard about a little brouhaha the owners of this restaurant had with S. Irene Virbila, the LA Times's restaurant critic, back in December, which seemed a little harsh. But for my part, I had a lovely time there, and really enjoyed the food, so I hope to go back there again soon.
In the meantime, check out my brief write-up on the LA Confidential site at the link below, and you can find the text here as well.
By Eric Rosen
After months of false starts, partners Adam Fleischman of Umami Burger, former Mina Group corporate beverage director Noah Ellis and culinary prodigy Jordan Kahn finally opened Red Medicine—a punkish Vietnamese canteen that brings to mind a late-night Chinatown dive with a farmers’ market twist. Though the corner store-style storefront in Beverly Hills has a no-frills interior, the food (much of it presented with an artful flair) gets special treatment, such as crispy spring rolls with Dungeness crab, calamansi and pea pods; and black-vinegar-and-honey-caramelized pork with prunes, sorrel, white poppy and dried almond. It's all perfect for washing down with a Krome vodka cocktail, a blend of “chili-anise shrub,” lime, grapefruit, Peychaud’s bitters, Thai basil and house-made ginger beer. 8400 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; redmedicinela.com