The January issue of LA Confidential is out, and with it, several new restaurant reviews for me. The lead one, however, happens to be of Chef Paul Shoemaker's new restaurant out in Malibu: Savory.I can honestly say that, despite the long drive out there, this was one of my favorite and most worthwhile meals I've enjoyed in Los Angeles lately, and I'd heartily recommend a meal there to anyone.
You can click on the link below to see my article on the magazine's web site, or just check out the text below.
Link: http://www.la-confidential-magazine.com/dining/articles/la-restaurant-savory
SAVORY
By Eric Rosen
Savory means “pleasing to the sense of taste,” and Paul Shoemaker’s new Malibu restaurant is certainly to our taste—both the beach-chic décor of dark wicker chairs and blonde wood tables and bar, and the locally sourced foods on Shoemaker’s ever-evolving menu.
Though the location in the Point Dume Village strip mall seems unlikely, it made sense to Shoemaker since Malibu is where he met and married his wife. Shoemaker brings his experience working with Michael Cimarusti at Water Grill and Providence—and his sadly stunted stint as executive chef at Bastide—to bear in dishes that combine the pick of regional produce with the refined touch of haute cuisine. A recent salad of arugula, prosciutto and burrata incorporated figs grown down the road. A perfectly pink hanger steak in Bordelaise with smoked butterball potatoes came with sautéed spinach from a farm just 40 miles away. The breads are all baked in-house, including the crust for his artisanal pizzas, made with a 200-year-old Neapolitan starter yeast.
Best of all—besides potential desserts like chocolate-brioche bread pudding with pistachio crusted vanilla gelato—is the price tag (dishes rarely cost more than $30). Now that’s something to savor indeed. Point Dume Village, 29169 Heathercliff Road, Malibu
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